Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and travelers equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, Unesco honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a exclusive group of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it becomes part of a global network of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "demonstrates its profound gastronomic legacy and vibrant culinary scene," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this time-honored city comes as little surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the limelight for what has perennially defined its heart: an immense devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a continued conversation from waking up until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, evolved, and taken to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases local ingredients but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on many street corners, there are small establishments and carts – little-known gems that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a no-frills joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is precise and involved. The vendor whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though say that their younger generation do not want to take up the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will inspire more people worldwide to discover these stories and travel to the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
